Tire Pressure -
Front: 19.0 PSI
Rear: 19.0 PSI
Gearing -
Final: 3.68
1st: 2.60
2nd: 1.59
3rd: 1.22
4th: 0.96
Alignment -
Camber -
Front: -1.0
Rear: -0.8
Toe -
Front: -0.1
Rear: 0.2
Caster: 3.0
Anti-Roll Bars -
Front: 40.00
Rear: 11.10
Springs -
Front: 600.0 LB/IN
Rear: 300.0 LB/IN
Ride Height -
Front: 6.8 IN
Rear: 7.4 IN
Damping -
Rebound -
Front: 7.0
Rear: 7.0
Bump: 4.0
Rear: 4.0
Aero -
Front: 67 LBS
Rear: 160 LBS
Braking -
Balance: 72%
Pressure: 95%
Differential -
Acceleration: 58%
Deceleration: 58%
---
I am following the turn numbers indicated by that of the course map shown on wikipedia, so have a tab open to that to better keep up with what turns I'm referencing.
Sonoma hosts a difficult racetrack for this car. You will need to run a good line in order to just keep on the track, especially in the esses. Your passing opportunities are pretty limited to the hairpins, or coming up to Turn 3 (a left hand corner followed by a cresting blind right hand corner). You can also outbrake an opponent going into Turn 4, but if you're trying to race without going onto the wide concrete patch on exit (which is uncertified zone), you might just hold off until the Turn 7 hairpin.
Turn 8a is tricky and if you aren't going at a proper speed, you might find yourself off track and into a stick grass patch that forces you to run only 20MPH. If you know you won't make the turn, just run the Indy Car extension. It's better to bite the bullet with that low speed chicane instead of spending easily twice as long trying to get out of the sticky grass patch. Just make sure you're clear before returning to the main track before you exit that chicane since you'll come right onto the racing line of Turn 9 exiting the chicane.
Turn 11 should be run pretty slow until the midpoint and then you'll be accelerating from then on until Turn 1. Oddly the AI racers of FM4 will slow down for Turn 12 even though a proper line with just about any car will allow for full throttle through it.
No video lap this time, so later I will update this post with a more detailed lap description that hopefully will not be as confusing as the Sedona Speedway lap walkthrough.
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Sedona Raceway Park - Speedway Tune V4 (Buick Regal GNX)
Upgrades -
Engine and Power: Full Race
Platform and Handling: Full Race
Drivetrain: Full Race
---
Tires and Rims:
Tire Compound: Race Tire
Front Tire Width: 275/45R16
Rear Tire Width: 275/45R16
Rim Style: American Racing Outlaw II
Rim Size: Stock
Aero and Appearance:
Front Bumper: Race Front Bumper
Rear Wing: Race Rear Wing
Hood: Stock Hood
---
PI: S-699
Power: 617 HP
Torque: 634 LB-FT
Weight: 2965 LBS
Front: 53%
Displ: 4.2 L
---
To note: The full sized rear tire width of 305mm would bring the car up to R3-705, so if you are racing a series that doesn't require specific body modifications or specific rims, you can potentially upgrade to this width and keep in the S Class. Adding the heaviest rim types bring the PI to R3-703. To decrease the PI to S700, you'll need to remove both the front and rear race aero modifications. As such, it might be a better idea to simply keep the 275mm rear tire width in order to keep the aero package installed, which is likely more useful on this car than the extra 30mm of rear tire width.
---
Tire Pressure -
Front: 27.5 PSI
Rear: 24.0 PSI
Gearing -
Final: 3.00
1st: 2.60
2nd: 1.80
3rd: 1.30
4th: 1.00
Alignment -
Camber -
Front: -2.2
Rear: -1.4
Toe -
Front: 0.2
Rear: -0.1
Caster: 6.0
Anti-Roll Bars -
Front: 40.00
Rear: 11.10
Springs -
Front: 400.0 LB/IN
Rear: 275.0 LB/IN
Ride Height -
Front: 6.8 IN
Rear: 7.5 IN
Damping -
Rebound -
Front: 1.0
Rear: 7.0
Bump: 2.0
Rear: 6.0
Aero -
Front: 92 LBS
Rear: 180 LBS
Braking -
Balance: 65%
Pressure: 90%
Differential -
Acceleration: 58%
Deceleration: 58%
---
When racing the Sedona Speedway, keep in mind that you are going to be keeping the car in 4th gear around the entire track once you are up to speed. If you slap the walls coming out of a corner, you could use 3rd to help re-accelerate, depending on how badly you hit the wall.
The tires will take about 1.5-2 laps to warm up to around 200F. However, if you are able to run a hotlap line on lap 1, you'll not need to slow down your corner speeds compared to later laps with warmed up tires. The right front tire will run around 220F after a few laps, and sometimes reach 230-240F. If you feel that 240F is a little hot, you can slow down for turns 1 and 2 for a single lap and the tire will cool off about 10-15F. The right rear should run about 210F.
Entering turn 1, you should be going around 174+. There is an overhead bit of lights you should see a small way into the turn. Go low and let off the gas here until you are going 160MPH. Wheh you are at 160, get back on the throttle and start heading up to the top of the track. By the time you are at a shadow from a pole, you should be at the top of the track and letting off the gas once more, this time down to 140-145MPH. Depending on how well you can manage to get back to the bottom of the track, you might be able to be going 150MPH instead, but usually that is the speed you'll reach right after the apex.
Come down the back straight full throttle until you reach towards the end of the straight. Look at the left part of the track for a grass patch next to a temporary concrete barrier (where the full course would rejoin to the oval). Right at the edge of the grass patch and the concrete barrier connecting is where you should let off the gas for turn 3, this time down to 150MPH. You'll be running a low line until you hit the throttle once you see the speedometer hitting 150, and which point you'll likely be running right next to the outer wall. You can either continue running the outside line, or be able to coax the car to have the grip to come down to the bottom of the track again. Either way, you should exit turn 4 at 160 and come across the start/finish line at 165+.
This half speed Youtube video shows the line I run with a few annotations depicting where I'm letting off the gas and such. This should help clear any potential confusion with the lap description given above.
Engine and Power: Full Race
Platform and Handling: Full Race
Drivetrain: Full Race
---
Tires and Rims:
Tire Compound: Race Tire
Front Tire Width: 275/45R16
Rear Tire Width: 275/45R16
Rim Style: American Racing Outlaw II
Rim Size: Stock
Aero and Appearance:
Front Bumper: Race Front Bumper
Rear Wing: Race Rear Wing
Hood: Stock Hood
---
PI: S-699
Power: 617 HP
Torque: 634 LB-FT
Weight: 2965 LBS
Front: 53%
Displ: 4.2 L
---
To note: The full sized rear tire width of 305mm would bring the car up to R3-705, so if you are racing a series that doesn't require specific body modifications or specific rims, you can potentially upgrade to this width and keep in the S Class. Adding the heaviest rim types bring the PI to R3-703. To decrease the PI to S700, you'll need to remove both the front and rear race aero modifications. As such, it might be a better idea to simply keep the 275mm rear tire width in order to keep the aero package installed, which is likely more useful on this car than the extra 30mm of rear tire width.
---
Tire Pressure -
Front: 27.5 PSI
Rear: 24.0 PSI
Gearing -
Final: 3.00
1st: 2.60
2nd: 1.80
3rd: 1.30
4th: 1.00
Alignment -
Camber -
Front: -2.2
Rear: -1.4
Toe -
Front: 0.2
Rear: -0.1
Caster: 6.0
Anti-Roll Bars -
Front: 40.00
Rear: 11.10
Springs -
Front: 400.0 LB/IN
Rear: 275.0 LB/IN
Ride Height -
Front: 6.8 IN
Rear: 7.5 IN
Damping -
Rebound -
Front: 1.0
Rear: 7.0
Bump: 2.0
Rear: 6.0
Aero -
Front: 92 LBS
Rear: 180 LBS
Braking -
Balance: 65%
Pressure: 90%
Differential -
Acceleration: 58%
Deceleration: 58%
---
When racing the Sedona Speedway, keep in mind that you are going to be keeping the car in 4th gear around the entire track once you are up to speed. If you slap the walls coming out of a corner, you could use 3rd to help re-accelerate, depending on how badly you hit the wall.
The tires will take about 1.5-2 laps to warm up to around 200F. However, if you are able to run a hotlap line on lap 1, you'll not need to slow down your corner speeds compared to later laps with warmed up tires. The right front tire will run around 220F after a few laps, and sometimes reach 230-240F. If you feel that 240F is a little hot, you can slow down for turns 1 and 2 for a single lap and the tire will cool off about 10-15F. The right rear should run about 210F.
Entering turn 1, you should be going around 174+. There is an overhead bit of lights you should see a small way into the turn. Go low and let off the gas here until you are going 160MPH. Wheh you are at 160, get back on the throttle and start heading up to the top of the track. By the time you are at a shadow from a pole, you should be at the top of the track and letting off the gas once more, this time down to 140-145MPH. Depending on how well you can manage to get back to the bottom of the track, you might be able to be going 150MPH instead, but usually that is the speed you'll reach right after the apex.
Come down the back straight full throttle until you reach towards the end of the straight. Look at the left part of the track for a grass patch next to a temporary concrete barrier (where the full course would rejoin to the oval). Right at the edge of the grass patch and the concrete barrier connecting is where you should let off the gas for turn 3, this time down to 150MPH. You'll be running a low line until you hit the throttle once you see the speedometer hitting 150, and which point you'll likely be running right next to the outer wall. You can either continue running the outside line, or be able to coax the car to have the grip to come down to the bottom of the track again. Either way, you should exit turn 4 at 160 and come across the start/finish line at 165+.
This half speed Youtube video shows the line I run with a few annotations depicting where I'm letting off the gas and such. This should help clear any potential confusion with the lap description given above.
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